Does a storm door really save energy?

Yes, but modestly. A storm door adds R-1 to R-2 of insulation and reduces air infiltration by 30 to 50 percent. For a Utah home with a drafty older entry door, this translates to roughly $30 to $70 per year in heating savings. The payback period for a mid-range storm door is 3 to 8 years based on energy savings alone.

Can a storm door damage my entry door?

It can. Full-view storm doors with large glass panels can trap solar heat between the storm door and the entry door, raising surface temperatures above 150 degrees Fahrenheit on south- and west-facing entries. This heat can warp fiberglass doors, blister paint on steel doors, and void manufacturer warranties. Use a vented storm door or one with an operable screen panel on sun-exposed entries.

Should I get a storm door or a new front door?

If your current entry door is structurally sound, seals well, and you mainly want added protection or a screen option, a storm door is a cost-effective add-on. If your entry door is drafty, dented, rusted, or outdated, replacing the entry door delivers far more value per dollar. A new insulated steel or fiberglass door provides 3 to 4 times the energy improvement of adding a storm door to an old one.

Do storm doors work well in Utah winters?

Yes. Storm doors create a dead-air buffer between the exterior and your entry door that reduces cold air infiltration. This buffer is especially valuable during Wasatch Front cold snaps when wind chills drop well below zero. The storm door also protects your entry door finish from direct exposure to snow, ice, and road salt.

Can I install a storm door myself?

Most standard storm doors are designed for DIY installation. The average homeowner with basic tools can complete the job in 2 to 3 hours. The door mounts to the existing brick mold or door casing with screws and a Z-bar frame. Custom-sized or retractable-screen models may benefit from professional installation to ensure proper fit and operation.

Storm Doors Worth It Utah? | Cost & Benefits

What a Storm Door Actually Does

A storm door is a second, outer door mounted in front of your primary entry door. It serves three functions: it adds a layer of insulation, it protects your entry door from direct weather exposure, and it provides a screen option for ventilation when the main door is open.

The insulation benefit comes from the dead-air space created between the storm door and the entry door. This air pocket acts as a thermal buffer, reducing heat transfer and blocking cold wind from directly hitting the entry door's weatherstripping and seals. In measurable terms, a storm door adds R-1 to R-2 of insulation value to your entry and reduces air infiltration by 30 to 50 percent.

Storm doors come in three main configurations:

Full-view: A single large glass panel with a slim frame. Maximizes light and visibility. Some models have interchangeable glass and screen inserts for seasonal switching.
Ventilating: Features operable glass panels that slide up or down to reveal a built-in screen. Best for homeowners who want airflow without removing the glass panel.
Retractable screen: The screen rolls into a hidden cassette when not in use. These are the most expensive but also the most convenient, giving you a clean look when the screen is retracted.

When a Storm Door Makes Sense in Utah

Storm doors are not universally recommended. They work well in specific situations.

Your Entry Door Is Older but Still Functional

If your steel or wood entry door is 10 to 20 years old, has some weatherstripping wear, but the door itself is not dented, warped, or rusted through, a storm door extends its life significantly. The storm door shields the entry door finish from UV, rain, snow, and road salt, which are the main enemies of door longevity along the Wasatch Front.

This is the highest-value scenario for a storm door. You spend $200 to $500 and gain both energy savings and 5 to 10 extra years of life from your existing entry door.

Your Entry Faces North or East

North- and east-facing entries take the brunt of winter storms and cold winds in most Utah neighborhoods. A storm door on these exposures provides maximum energy benefit because the dead-air buffer blocks the prevailing cold. The heat-trapping risk is minimal on north-facing doors since they receive little direct sun.

You Want a Screen Door for Summer

Utah summers are beautiful, and many homeowners want to open the front door for fresh air while keeping bugs out. A storm door with a retractable or ventilating screen panel gives you that option. This is a lifestyle benefit that has nothing to do with energy savings and is a perfectly valid reason to install a storm door.

Your Home Has an Exposed Entry Without a Porch

Homes with entries that open directly to the elements, no porch overhang, no recessed entry, benefit from a storm door's weather protection. The storm door takes the direct hit from rain, snow, and wind, sparing your entry door and its hardware.

When to Skip the Storm Door

There are situations where a storm door is not the right investment.

Your Entry Door Needs Replacement

If your entry door is drafty, dented, rusted, warped, or over 20 years old, adding a storm door is putting a bandage on a bigger problem. A new steel or fiberglass entry door with modern weatherstripping and an insulated core delivers three to four times the energy improvement of a storm door added to an old one.

A basic steel entry door with installation costs $800 to $1,500 in Utah. A storm door costs $200 to $500. The entry door replacement is the far better investment when the existing door is failing.

Your Entry Faces South or West with No Shade

This is the critical warning. Storm doors with large glass panels trap solar heat between the storm door and the entry door. On south- and west-facing entries, surface temperatures between the two doors can exceed 150 degrees Fahrenheit on sunny winter and spring days.

That trapped heat can:

Blister and peel paint on steel entry doors
Warp fiberglass entry doors (especially dark-colored ones)
Degrade weatherstripping prematurely
Void the entry door manufacturer's warranty (Therma-Tru, Masonite, JELD-WEN, and others explicitly warn against non-vented storm doors on sun-exposed entries)

If your entry faces south or west and gets direct afternoon sun, either skip the storm door entirely or choose a ventilating model that allows trapped heat to escape through the screen. A fully vented storm door with the screen panel open in the sun-facing position eliminates most of the heat-trapping risk.

Your Entry Is Deeply Recessed

Some Utah home designs feature deeply recessed entries (3 feet or more) with a roof overhang. These entries are already protected from direct weather and wind. The energy benefit of adding a storm door to a sheltered, recessed entry is minimal because the dead-air space already exists naturally. Your money is better spent on upgrading weatherstripping or adjusting the threshold.

You Have a Brand-New Entry Door

If you just installed a quality insulated steel or fiberglass entry door with modern compression weatherstripping, the marginal energy benefit of adding a storm door is small. A new door with proper weatherstripping already provides an excellent air seal. The storm door adds R-1 to R-2 on top of an already well-insulated assembly, a modest gain that may take 8 to 12 years to recoup through energy savings.

The exception: if you want the screen function for summer ventilation, a storm door still makes sense regardless of the entry door's age.

Storm Door Costs in Utah

All prices reflect 2026 Utah market rates.

Door and Hardware

Storm Door Type	Price Range
Basic full-view (Larson, EMCO)	$100 - $250
Mid-range ventilating	$200 - $400
Premium retractable screen	$300 - $600
Custom-sized (non-standard openings)	$400 - $800

Installation

Installation Approach	Cost
DIY installation	$0 (2-3 hours of your time)
Professional installation	$100 - $250
Professional with brick mold repair	$200 - $400

Total Installed Cost

Most Utah homeowners spend $200 to $500 total for a storm door purchase and professional installation. Retractable screen models push toward $400 to $700.

Energy Savings Payback

Based on Utah energy costs and climate data:

Older drafty door + storm door: Saves $30 to $70 per year. Payback in 3 to 8 years.
Newer solid door + storm door: Saves $10 to $25 per year. Payback in 10 to 20 years.
Screen/ventilation benefit: Allows free natural cooling on temperate days, which can save $20 to $50 per year in reduced air conditioning use during spring and fall.

Compatibility with Steel and Fiberglass Entry Doors

Before buying a storm door, check compatibility with your existing entry door material.

Steel Entry Doors

Storm doors work well with steel entry doors in most cases. The storm door protects the steel finish from weather exposure, which reduces the risk of rust and paint deterioration. Two precautions:

Color matters. Dark-colored steel doors (black, dark red, dark brown) absorb more heat. Pair with a ventilating storm door, especially on south and west exposures.
Check the warranty. Review your steel door manufacturer's warranty terms regarding storm doors. Most allow them with conditions about ventilation.

Fiberglass Entry Doors

Fiberglass doors are more sensitive to heat trapping than steel. The composite material can soften and warp at sustained temperatures above 140 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit. If you have a fiberglass entry door:

Choose a storm door with a full-screen or ventilating option
Keep the screen panel in the open position during sunny periods
Avoid dark-colored fiberglass doors combined with full-view (non-vented) storm doors on sun-exposed entries
Verify the fiberglass door warranty explicitly permits a storm door

For a deeper understanding of how steel and fiberglass doors differ in durability and maintenance, see our complete material comparison.

Wood Entry Doors

Wood entry doors benefit the most from storm doors because the storm door shields the wood from rain, snow, UV, and temperature swings. If you have a wood entry door that you love and do not want to replace, a storm door is one of the best investments you can make to preserve it.

Installation Basics

Storm door installation is one of the more accessible DIY projects for Utah homeowners.

What You Need

Storm door kit (door, Z-bar frame, hardware, and installation screws included)
Power drill with Phillips bit
Tape measure
Hacksaw (for cutting the Z-bar to fit)
Level
Pencil
Safety glasses

The Process

Measure the opening. Measure the width at the top and bottom and the height on both sides. Storm doors come in standard sizes (32-inch, 34-inch, and 36-inch widths). If your opening is between sizes, choose the smaller one and use the supplied expander strips.
Install the hinge-side Z-bar. The Z-bar mounts to the door casing (brick mold) on the hinge side. Level it and screw it in place.
Hang the door. Attach the door to the Z-bar with the supplied hinge pins.
Install the latch-side Z-bar. Position it so the door closes snugly with a slight compression of the weatherstripping.
Install the drip cap. The horizontal piece across the top of the frame directs water over the storm door.
Install hardware. Attach the handle, closer (pneumatic arm that controls the closing speed), and any auxiliary hardware.
Adjust. Check the door's swing, alignment, and latch engagement. Adjust the closer tension so the door closes firmly without slamming.

Most installations take 2 to 3 hours. Professional installation is worthwhile if your opening is out of square, the brick mold is damaged, or you want a perfect finish.

Utah-Specific Installation Tips

Install in mild weather if possible. The caulk and weatherstripping materials perform best when applied at temperatures between 40 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Use exterior-rated screws. Utah's freeze-thaw cycles and occasional road salt exposure can corrode standard screws. Stainless steel or coated deck screws are worth the few extra dollars.
Check the door sweep. Ensure the bottom sweep or expander contacts the threshold evenly. Utah's dry air causes materials to shrink slightly, so a tight fit in summer may develop a gap in winter. Adjustable sweeps are preferable.

The Bottom Line: Storm Door or New Door?

Here is the simple decision framework:

Install a storm door if:

Your entry door is in good condition but 10 or more years old
You want a screen for summer ventilation
Your entry faces north or east with direct weather exposure
You are on a tight budget and need an incremental improvement

Replace the entry door instead if:

Your current door is drafty, dented, rusted, or warped
The weatherstripping is failing and the door does not seal properly
You want a significant energy efficiency improvement
You are preparing your home for sale (a new entry door returns more at resale)

For many Utah homeowners, the best strategy is to replace an aging entry door with a new steel or fiberglass unit and then add a storm door for the screen function and extra weather protection. This two-door approach maximizes both energy performance and daily convenience.

For tips on keeping any door system performing at its best year-round, check out our front door maintenance guide.

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Are Storm Doors Worth It in Utah? Cost, Benefits, and When to Skip

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